Hogan Lake Loop (modified due to Low water & High temperatures)
Canoe, to Tom Thompson, Sumbeam, Grassy Bay, Big Trout, Red Pine Lake, Lamuir, Big Trout, Little Otterslide, Canoe Lakes
Participants: Al & Karen
Canoe: 15' Nova Craft (Kevlar)
Paddles: Grassmere (Butternut) custom
Date Aug 3, to 17, 2001
Distance Travelled :124 Km. Portages 23, 35.679 km.
We arrived at canoe lake at 10:30 signed in and set of on our first leg of the trip. the Temperature was 31°C and no wind,also there had been no rain in weeks. There was a FIRE BAN in effect and there was a boil water order issued. When we got to fawn lake we stopped for lunch and discovered that we were taking on water. on further inspection we discovered that we had scraped keel on the gravel on launch after the portage (269 m.) at the dam on canoe lake and it was leaking. I had some seam sealer in the repair kit and effected a temporary repair. On arriving at Tom Thompson Lake we found the only campsite left and set up. It was hilly but ok. that night we had a full moon and and quite a star show.
Nightmare Alley. We got under way early and got to the first portage to Bartlet L. It wasn't too bad and we continued to the next portage. It was rough but we managed ok until we got to a small lake the water level was so low we couldn't float the canoe with us in it. It was also full of stumps and we were knee deep in mud. this lake was impossible and we ended up having to portage around the shoreline. This wasted a lot of time, the temp was 32° and no wind not to mention that most of the shoreline was marsh. we lost about 5 hours getting around this. On the other side of the lake we had another portage this one was an up, over and steep down. we then came to Willow Lake a very pretty little lake. The portage from Willow to Sunbeam was very rocky but ok.On Sunbeam there was only one campsite left it was now about 7:00P.M.. and we were beat. the campsite was not very nice but we had no choice. We had been travelling for 8½ hours and it was hot humid and we were dead on our feet. After a quick dinner we crashed.
Woke up 6:00 am. it was hot, humid and no wind. We had breakfast and then after looking at the map decided to modify our trip. We stayed an extra day on Sunbeam and moved to a nice Island campsite where we could swim and just relax. As every one either moved on or headed for home, we had the whole lake to ourselves. About 2:30 am. we were awakened by a whole pack of wolves about 200 yards away on the shore line of the lake They were howling at a full moon and it was beautiful. If you are traveling on Sunbeam Lake it is very shallow and full of rocks (beware)
It's Monday 6:00 A.M. and we've got 3.2 km. of portages today. We left camp at 7:30 and finished the last of the portages (total 9.6 km. double carry) at 7:00P.M.. we found the first campsite in Grassey bay on a point and made camp, ate dinner and crashed ( We were whacked !!). We were awakened at 4:50A.M.. by a pack of wolves somewhere across the bay
We were supposed to go to Burntroot today however we have modified our trip due to low water conditions on the Petawawawa not to mention the 4 km. of portages (double carry 12 km.) in 30+ temperatures from Petawawa to Hogan Lake, would make travel extremely difficult (We're on a holiday not a Eco Challenge). We paddled east through Grassey bay and up into White Trout and continued up into Big Trout. It was very hot abt 30+ and no wind. We found a great campsite on an island in big trout and stopped for lunch and decided to stay. As there were lots of campsites available we weren't depriving any one of a site that night. About 3:00 P.M. a thunder storm moved in and we prepared for a big one. There was lots of thunder we saw no lightning and it rained for about 15 seconds (didn't even dampen the ground). We studied our maps and decided to stay an extra day on Big Trout. That evening on an extended paddle around the lake we found only one other campsite occupied. That evening we enjoyed a great star show and a very bright moon.
As we were going to stay an extra day on Big Trout we decided to explore the lake further. Al did a little fishing, (didn't catch anything) and we went swimming as we had on most of the lakes so far. The water temperature was at least 20°C and was like soup. We also had some loons that stayed very close to our campsite and seemed very interested in us. Early that evening another Thunder storm moved in but it didn't last long, although it did drizzle of and on through most of the night.
Today we started out late about 10:30., paddled North on Big Trout to the portage around the dam (300 m.)into Longer Lake (it was easy!!). We then continued up Longer into the Petawawa and came to the next portage (40 m.). The take out was extremely rocky and made the portage about 100 m. of Hell, due to the low water level. The next portage, we were able to walk the canoe through the rapid guiding the canoe around the rocks. Once in Burntroot Lake the wind had come up and we found a site on a point in Red Pine Bay. After making camp we had dinner and just sat about. About 8:00 P.M. a big Thunder storm moved in it was a bad one and Al saw signs of a possible Tornado. The storm Lasted about 1 hour and later that evening we went to bed.
Woke up to bright Sun and very !! Cold Wind !!, There are white caps on the lake, sure glad were staying put today.It'ss so cool we have to break out the jackets. for the 1st time temp is about 10°C. (big drop from yesterday's 30. There has not yet been enough rain to cancel the fire ban (we need bout 4 - 5 days of drizzle for that). This afternoon we went to check out the portage 735 m to Lake Lamuir. It is a long steady climb then a steep downhill through a rock garden ( sure glad we will be going the direction we are, the other way would be a killer). We have just finished dinner (Stew and Dumplings). It is 7:45, I think I will try a little fishing. ...Didn't catch anything.
Last night it got really cold about 6°. There is a heavy fog over the lake, we made breakfast and set off. After reaching the 735 m. portage the take out is a very easy sand beach but the portage is full of rock gardens. and board walks after a few bogs the last 100 m is about 30 m. down a very steep rocky path with lots of loose rock. the put in is also quite rocky but one you're away, no problem. We paddled East on La Muirand came to a campsite on a point where the lake turns North. This campsite must have been designed by Boy Scouts. It has a small dock made of stones, sand beach, steps into the site (only two) a great place to hang your food, Split log benches (level) around the fire pit, and a nice grassy, well drained area up on the top of the small hill for you to put your tent. To date we have only seen Loons, 1 Blue Heron, 1 Beaver. It's pretty cool at night now.
Woke up this morning to a beautiful, sunny day with a slight breeze. We are the only ones on the this lake. We have had breakfast and are going to check out the 2590 m. portage to Big Trout Lake for tomorrow. This portage is easy to moderate in difficulty but long. There is a spring at the Big Trout end but due to the low water levels we don't trust the water quality it empty s into a swampy bog. there is also a dilapidated dock at the put in. We came back to camp, had lunch, did some laundry and just relaxed. Later we went for a swim but the wind was cool.
We're going to get rain. We packed up headed across Lake La Muir for the portage to Big Trout 2590 m. It has started to rain, the portage isn't too bad a little up and down but mostly level and long. Double carry we finished 7,770 m. in just under 3Hrss. The put in at Big Trout is an old dock that is falling apart but functional.Part way down Big Trout the wind has come up so we have stopped to tie down the gear and get into the bottom of the canoe for better stability. The lake got pretty rough and 4.5 km. later we found a campsite near Otterslide Creek. It's a nice site in a small bay but not much sun. We had dinner and crashed for the night. The wind was really blowing all day and well into the night,
Got up, It's very cold about 45° made breakfast and went exploring up Otterslide Creek, looking for a spring that is supposed to be there, near the portage. No luck. on coming back to camp we found the campsite on the small island nearby was empty so we checked it out, broke camp and moved. We set up on the new site and spent the rest of the day relaxing. Al, not feeling well, crashed early.
When we got up it was sunny. struck camp and set out for the 1st of 5 portages. the first portage 105 m. was easy someone has built steps up the steep hill and the sandy put in was no problem. the river was not very deep but no problem. After the 730 m. portage the river winds through a marshy area and took forever. felt like a couple of km. We came across 6 liftover s (Beaver Dams) and one extra portage due to low water.Finally, after 5220m of portages (double carry we got to Otterslide L. We paddled down into Little Otterslide and found there was only one site left. At first we didn't think much of it but it actually turned out to be not too bad. Our favorite site on the island was taken but were here for 2 days if it opens up we'll move.
Got up late this morning, about 8:00 am. It's overcast and the Sun is trying to get through. We went for a paddle to check out sites. We found 3 new ones and also walked the 730 m portage to Burnt Island lake , to see if there were any changes since we travelled this on 4 years earlier. We found 1 new boardwalk through a bog and part of the trail has been made wider. This is a well travelled portage and the rock garden at the Otterslide end is still the same. We went back to camp and decided to stay put in this site. It looks a little rough but it's really pretty good. It's now 4:30 and been overcast all day and starting to spit rain. When it comes we 're really going to get it. There's been no rain for over a month and we really need it. We saw 5 loons this morning, Al called and they got excited, flapping and calling back. It's after dinner and starting to rain nothing to do but work on the log. Tomorrow we head for Burnt Island lake.
We got up this morning about 6:00 and made breakfast. It's overcast and we're heading today for Burnt Island Lake. We started off for the 790 m. portage to Burnt Island Lake without any trouble the portage is very well used it hasn't rained since last night which wasn't enough to make the ground wet. At the Burnt Island end we found the wind was increasing from the south and swinging from S to NW., a sure sign of a approaching storm. We got loaded up and tied everything down just in case we capsized. We headed out across the bay at the east end of the lake and around the point we made good time crossing the bay but once around the point, the wind really started to blow and the swells became whitecaps and were increasing in size. We made it to a small bay on the south shore and broke out the rain gear just as the storm hit.
Its a long time since I have seen it rain that hard, it came down in buckets. We decided that since we only had two more days left on our trip that we would head out for home. We didn't want to be packing wet gear or spend another day in the rain, as this was going to last for a couple of days. When the downpour stopped we continued on down the lake. The rain came on and off and the wind didn't let up. It took almost 3 hours to get to the west end of the lake. We crossed the 200 m portage which was now becoming quite muddy. At Baby Joe Lake we put in and headed for the creek to Lost Joe. The water level was too low and we were forced to take the 435 m. portage around the creek. (We usually can get through the creek). The rain stopped long enough for us to eat some lunch. We continued down the creek through Joe Lake where we were supposed to stay tomorrow night out into canoe lake.
The rain came on and off and the high winds continued until we arrived at the portage store at 4:45 pm we had been travelling for almost 9 hours. We unloaded the canoe and packed the car trying to keep the gear as dry as possible. We then went into the restraunt and had one of their Portage Burgers (Voyager) it was great. After that we were too tired to try driving home so we found a nice motel just outside the park where we could clean up, relax and crash. We headed home the next morning (Saturday) to avoid the Sunday rush on the highway.
